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Waves
Tides
Currents
Shoreline Weathering
Coastal Erosion
Sediment Transport and Deposition
Organic Activity
Changes in Sea Level
Coastal Hazards
Human Modifications of Coastal Processes
Waves

Waves are characterized by their length, height (amplitude), velocity (rate of forward motion of the wave peak), and period (the interval of time between successive wave peaks passing the same point). These properties, and the relationships between them, vary greatly depending on the nature of the mechanism generating the wave, the intensity of this generating mechanism, and the environment in which the wave exists.

Wind-generation of waves involves a transfer of energy from moving air to a water surface. Although a very familiar process, the way in which this occurs is still not fully understood (Summerfield 1991). The amount of energy exchanged depends mainly on velocity, duration, and fetch (the distance over which the wind blows, which has an important influence on wave height and period) of the

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